Vacheron Constantin Goes Retrograde At Watches and Wonders 23
Step into the world of Vacheron Constantin, where the measurement of time has transcended to an art form. The brand debuted several novelties at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023, leaving us in awe once again. From the masterful Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, to the elegant Patrimony Day-Date Retrograde. Not to mention some very welcome additions to the sporty Overseas collection. Showcasing intricate designs and innovative technology, each piece is a testament to the brand’s commitment to excellence. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or simply appreciate the finer things in life, Vacheron Constantin’s novelties are sure to capture your heart and make you fall in love with time all over again. Sit back, relax, and immerse yourself in the luxurious world of horology with Vacheron Constantin.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
Vacheron Constantin’s latest piece of haute horology is a fusion of traditional and contemporary styles, featuring a tourbillon with a retrograde date display. The polished 41mm 18k pink gold case has a stepped design complete with fluted case back in the classic Traditionelle style. Immediately drawing the eye is the superbly crafted dial, which features four distinct planes. Running the periphery of the dial is an opaline flange adorned with railway minute track. Next, the upper half of the dial is graced by an arched, hand-guilloché chapter ring in grey. This ring hosts the applied gold hour indices and the date track for the retrograde date. The pointer hand – crafted from 18k blackened gold with a white arrow-shaped tip – traverses the arc over the course of the month before flying back to ‘1’ at the end of its thirty-one day journey. An open-worked area just underneath allows a bird’s eye view of parts of the retrograde mechanism, allowing the wearer to observe it in action. The movement plate it sits on features a modern slate grey surface treatment and is decorated with vertical hand-brushing.
The bottom half of the dial meanwhile is dominated by the impressive tourbillon featuring Vacheron’s distinctive Maltese Cross. Completing a full rotation every 60 seconds, it is framed by a seconds track and is visible from both the front and back of the piece. As one would expect from the Maison, the expertly executed finishings of the tourbillon cage are sublime, with hand-bevelled and hand-polished surfaces. If you look closely, you will also note that the bottom half of the movement plate features a different finish to the top half. Like the date display above, it too features hand-guilloché finishing, tying this very elaborate dial nicely together.
Turning the piece over reveals another stunning view, that of the self-winding, in-house calibre 2162 R31. Boasting Poinçon de Genève certification, it features slate grey bridges treated with a NAC surface treatment. When fully wound the movement offers 72 hours of power reserve. The Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface comes with a handstitched grey alligator leather strap and a pink gold folding clasp shaped like a half Maltese cross.
Patrimony Day-Date Retrograde
Already a firm favourite in the collection, the Patrimony Day-Date Retrograde is not a new model as such. However, it has never before been offered in this special metal/dial colour combination. What we have here is a gorgeous 42.5mm round case crafted in platinum and measuring just 9.7mm thick. It’s paired with a slightly domed, salmon-coloured dial with sunburst finish, featuring 18k white gold applied hour markers and hands, as well as an 18k white gold pearl minute track. Although barely perceptible to the naked eye, the white gold hours and minutes hands are slightly curved to follow the shape of the dial.
Most striking of all though is the retrograde date and retrograde day displays in a lovely blue that complements the dial perfectly. Likewise, the retrograde day and date hands are blued steel and spear-shaped, with hollow ends. Truly a master class in blending sophisticated style with practical legibility. Inside the case is the in-house self-winding calibre 2460 R31R7/3, which is stamped with the Poinçon de Genève as a testament to its high-level of finishing and precision.
Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date
The third retrograde date watch from Vacheron Constantin this year and perhaps the one that has collectors the most excited, the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date received a very warm welcome at W&W23. Reason being is that despite the collection’s exceptional popularity, its never featured one of Vacheron’s most recognisable complications. That all changes this year with the Retrograde Date indicator proudly arcing across the top half of the translucent blue lacquered dial. Opposing this at six o’clock is a highly accurate moon phase display complete with “age of the moon” indicator that allows you to see at a glance where the moon is in its 29 day, 12 hour, and 45-minute cycle orbiting the earth.
Taken at face value this seems a logical evolution for Vacheron’s Overseas collection but in reality its execution was anything but. It reportedly took three years of research and development to ensure the in-house Calibre 2460 R31L/2 could fit seamlessly into the Overseas 41mm steel case with its iconic Maltese-cross inspired bezel. Self-winding, the movement provides a 40-hour power reserve and is comprised of 275 components. This model is offered on a matching steel bracelet, along with an additional blue calfskin leather strap with grey stitching and a blue rubber strap.
With its reduced case size, these new 34.5mm versions of the Overseas Self-Winding open the collection up to those with smaller wrists. Or alternatively those who simply prefer a smaller timepiece. Offered in your choice of pink gold or stainless steel, there’s also the option of a gem-set bezel featuring 84 round cut diamonds (available in either metal, the case diameter grows ever so slightly to 35mm). Aside from the smaller dimensions, these versions of the Overseas Self-Winding are visually identical to their larger stablemates and are offered on bracelets matching the metal of the case, along with additional straps in leather and rubber. Thanks to Vacheron’s self-interchangeable system allowing for quick, tool free strap changes, the watch can be personalized according to the owner’s wishes.
Book Your Appointment Today
As an authorised retail partner for Vacheron Constantin in Australia, Watches of Switzerland is pleased to present these exceptional new timepieces to our esteemed clientele. For more information and to enquire about the possibility of a private viewing, please contact our Perth boutique today.