Cartier Steals The Spotlight At Watches & Wonders 23

Cartier Steals The Spotlight At Watches & Wonders 23


Watches and Wonders isn’t even over yet, and already one brand is the talk of Geneva, and indeed the worldwide watch community. Maison Cartier has truly impressed with the breadth and depth of its novelties for 2023, including its sculptural masterpiece, the Santos-Dumont Micro-Rotor. Elsewhere across the ranges, we see bold new colour choices for familiar favourites in the Santos and Tank collections, some hard stone limited editions as well as welcome new additions to Cartier’s feminine Baignoire collection. You’re going to want to pour yourself a glass of something nice for this one. Let’s get into some of our favourite Cartier novelties for 2023.

Cartier Santos Skeleton - WHSA0031
This aesthetic and technical tribute to Alberto Santos-Dumont to is a feat of achievement, level with his own.

Cartier Santos-Dumont Micro-Rotor

If you know your Cartier history, you know that the Santos was created in 1904 by Louis Cartier in response to a request from aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont for a wrist worn watch suitable for his avionic pursuits. (You can read the full story on Perpetual here). Of course, we’ve come a long way since that early model, and so in 2023 Cartier unveils a Santos-Dumont timepiece unlike any we’ve seen before. Presented in three versions, this is the first skeletonized Santos since Cartier relaunched the collection in 2018 and puts the brand’s new in-house 9629 MC calibre on full display. The result of two years of development, the shaped bridges of the 212-component, self-winding movement perfectly integrate with the iconic square shape of the Santos case. The show stealer is of course the micro-rotor that is visible on the dial side, which takes the shape of shape of the Demoiselle, a series of lightweight planes designed in 1908 by Santos-Dumont. To emphasize the pioneering spirit of the aviator, the plane is shown flying over a globe.
Of the three variations, only the one in yellow gold featuring polished blue lacquer highlights is a numbered limited edition of 150 pieces. The other two – in rose gold and stainless steel respectively – will join the Santos range on an ongoing basis. All three models are offered with two interchangeable alligator leather straps.

Cartier Santos Dumont XL - WGSA0077 - Flinqué blue dial with sunray and textured guilloche effect
With tapered lines and optimal ergonomics, the Santos watch is a leading icon of Cartier’s design culture.

Cartier Santos-Dumont XL

Also joining the Santos-Dumont collection this year are three limited edition pieces in precious metals – platinum, rose gold and yellow gold – that feature guilloche dials adorned with Roman numerals carved in jasper, jade and dumortierite. Sure to be coveted by collectors, these head turning models are limited to 200 examples each. Alongside them are two new, non-limited Santos-Dumont arrivals. The first offers a yellow gold case paired with a satin-finished flinqué blue dial with sunray and textured guilloche effect and contrasting hands and roman numerals in a yellow golden finish. The second is in steel with a gold bezel and also offers a Satin-finished flinqué dial with sunray and textured guilloche effect, although this time in grey. Both versions are powered by high autonomy quartz movements, while the limited-edition models feature Cartier’s in-house manual winding 430 MC calibre.

Cartier Santos Dumont - WGSA0084 - WGSA0082 - WGSA0083
Cartier Santos Dumont – Limited to 200 pieces each.

Cartier Santos de Cartier

Cartier Santos - WSSA0062
The iconic Santos de Cartier watch explores colour.

This year Cartier continues its build out of the Santos de Cartier collection, completing the range of chromatic models with an alluring green dial available on both the Medium and Large model sizes, as well as adding a blue dial to the Medium case size. The satin-finished dials feature gradient and sunray effects, with their hues changing in depth and richness depending on the light. All three versions are presented in steel cases on matching steel bracelets offering Cartier’s “SmartLink” sizing system as well as Quickswitch for seamless switching between the bracelet and supplied alligator leather strap, all without the need for tools. All three models run on the automatic 1847 MC calibre and offer a power reserve of 40 hours.

Tank Louis Cartier

Without doubt one of the most iconic watch designs in history, Louis Cartier created the Tank watch in 1917. Five years later, in 1922, the emblematic design was reimagined to create the Tank Louis Cartier watch. With its thinner vertical brancards and smooth angles, the elegant Tank Louis Cartier has become the go to choice for stylish aficionados the world over. This year, Cartier spoils us with not one but two models in yellow gold featuring rich, hand lacquered dials – absent of any markings other than the Cartier name below 12 o’clock – in your choice of dark red or green. Worn on alligator leather straps matching the dial colours, these models are statement pieces in the truest sense of the term. Equipped with the manual-winding 1917 MC movement, the case thickness is kept to a barely there 6.6mm.

Cartier Tank Américaine - WGTA0134
Cartier is reinforcing the original design of the watch.

Tank Américaine Large Model

Launched in 1989, the Tank Américaine drew its inspiration from the Tank Cintrée watch, from which it borrowed its curved case. This year, the Maison’s design studio is reinforcing the original design of the watch and its curved shape by carving a finer, more acrobatic line. Part of this includes the development of the new 1899 MC self-winding movement for the large models, which allows for slimmer cases and an even more refined fit on the wrist. Available in pink gold or stainless steel, this refresh of a design classic is sure to please even the most discerning of con noisseurs. The wider Tank Américaine collection is also getting a refresh, including a new metal bracelet for the Small and Mini case sizes.

Cartier Baignoire - WGTA0018
Purity of line, accuracy of shape, precise proportions, and precious details: the Baignoire watch is essential.


Created by Louis Cartier in 1912, this signature oval watch has seen multiple interpretations over its 110-year history. This year, Cartier rejuvenates Baignoire with a mini size of the original curved shape. The signature oval dial is crowned with a generous gold ribbon around the dial and paired with a black varnished leather strap. There’s also the new Baignoire Bangle in yellow or pink gold, which offers a rigid metal bracelet with an invisible clasp that is designed to be worn as a bangle, giving you the functionality of a watch and the style of a jewellery piece. The Baignoire One Row meanwhile features one row of brilliant-cut diamonds integrated into the yellow gold case framing the dial in a dazzling array. Last but not least is the Baignoire Casque D’or, which features a yellow or white gold case with a semi-rigid bracelet inspired by the “casque d’or” design from the Cartier archives.

For Cartier, it all starts with the design. An uncompromising feature. Clean and precise lines. The Tank watch is the epitome of this pursuit of purity.
For Cartier, it all starts with the design. An uncompromising feature. Clean and precise lines. The Tank watch is the epitome of this pursuit of purity.

Available Soon From Watches Of Switzerland

A selection of Cartier’s novelties for 2023 will be available soon from Watches of Switzerland. Please contact us today to discuss the possibility of making a pre-order, or alternatively sign up to our mailing list to be among the first to know when the new models are arriving in store and online.